Orebic, on the peninsula Peljesac, suits me perfectly. It's tiny, with a population of around 1500. It's uncrowded, with most tourists just passing through to get to Korcula. It has great little beaches everywhere, with great swimming. There's a great big Mt. Ilija in the background, which is a great dayhike with superb views. And for some interesting shopping and architecture, Korcula is a 15-minute ferry ride away.
Most accommodation is private. Just walk from house to house and ask for rooms or apartment to rent. The going rate is around 10 euros a night per person in May, June and September, and 15 in July and August. Expect to pay slightly more than they quote you, as they seem to always ask for payment in whatever currency you don't have, and then they rip you off with a terrible exchange rate. If you expect to get ripped off by 10 or 15%, you may be pleasantly surprised.
From our experience in southern Dalmatia, the most important things to look for in private accommodation are cleanliness and a comfortable bed. If you want a double bed, check to make sure it's a true double bed and not just two singles pushed together.
Where to Stay in Orebic
- Where we stayed this year: You get the great view above, it's meticulously clean, and the bed is huge and comfy--but you have to stay in the corner room. The other 4 rooms aren't as special. Also, the landlady is grumpy, but her daughter is very nice and you'll deal mostly with her. Call ++385-20-713-319.
- Where we stayed two years ago: It's close to the east beach and right on the water. There's three units, accommodating two to six people. The landlord is very friendly. Call Captain Ruvo Nedjeljko, ++385-20-713-207.
- Find your own place. Just stroll along the water, and yell "Allo?" at the front door of any place you like. It can take an hour or two to find the right place, so be patient.
The water in southern Dalmatia is nice and warm in the summer months--it can get up to 29 degrees C! In June and September the water is very pleasant, and in May and October the water is a little cool, but very swimmable--especially for a Canadian.
The water is very clear because there's so little algae, so underwater visibility is excellent. Unfortunately, though, there's very little marine life to look at. The Mediterranean has been overfished for centuries, and industrial pollution killed everything else.
The weather in Orebic always seems to be perfect. Our last trip there was last Sunday to Wednesday, and the forecast for nearby Dubrovnik and Split was rain, lightning, and thunderstorms. But the weather in Orebic was very warm and mostly sunny. The difference may be that weather systems build up on the mountain that lies behind Orebic, and release on the other side.
In June, which is my favourite month to visit, you can expect daytime highs of 25 to 30 C, and a water temperature of 21 to 24.
Where to Eat
Food in Dalmatia is always troublesome for us. There's very little variety, and we've never had anything that tasted better than we could make at home. So we usually buy food at the supermarkets, and cook in our apartment. It's cheaper and it tastes better.
Where to Eat in Orebic
- Eat at your rented apartment.
- Buy groceries at the supermarket, 300 metres up from the post office and Splitska Bank
- Buy bread at the bakery across from the supermarket. Go early for the best selection.
- Buy fruit and veggies from the open market near the supermarket. Go early for the best selection.
- If you really want to eat out, pizza is okay. Pasta is very inconsistent. Try Marco Polo restaurant, which is on the water, halfway between the harbour and the east beach.
How to Get There
The best way to end a day in Orebic is on a full stomach, sitting on one of the beaches in the western part of the town, watching the sunlight fade away over the mountains. The temperature in the evening is perfect. The sea looks even more gorgeous in the evening light, and for a few fleeting moments, there's no place I'd rather be.
How to get to Orebic from Mostar
Orebic is on the Peljesac peninsula. Unless you're travelling from Dubrovnik, the best way to get there is on the ferry from Ploce.
- Take the train to Ploce (2 hours, $8 USD return ticket)
- Take the ferry from Ploce to Trpanj (1 hour, $3 USD)
- Take the bus from Trpanj to Orebic (30 minutes, $2 USD)